On Thursday morning I left for Israel. Sitting next to me on the flight to NY were a young couple who engaged me about where I was going. When I said that I was connecting to Tel Aviv, they were excited to ask questions about Tel Aviv, Israel, and if Christians were able to go to the Christian holy sites. I was thrilled that they wanted to ask these questions and yet also sad that they didn’t know that it has only been when the holy sites are under the control of Israel that everybody has access to their holy sites. I was glad that they asked and from their responses, I think they were glad they asked. It shows just how far behind we are with education people about Israel.

I arrived in Israel early this morning. It was a different feeling as it felt like I was in Israel as I boarded the El Al flight at JFK. I was surrounded by Jews, Arabs, and Christians, all going to Israel. It was a warm, comforting feeling. I had to get up at 4 am for my flight from Orlando, so I was already tired when I boarded El Al. I think I slept more on this flight than any one I have previously, only getting up for the two meals and to prepare for landing.

That sounds a little strange since most people think I’m flying into a war zone, a dangerous place, a scary place. I feel like I’m flying home. Unlike most flights to Israel, when we landed, there wasn’t big applause from the passengers. Perhaps it is because the passengers are different now. They also feel like they are coming home rather than going to “The Holy Land.” It was clear the plane was full of people who have connections to Israel, not just tourists.

I took the train from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, a beautiful, fast, and inexpensive way to get from one city to the other. I likely wouldn’t have even gotten out of Tel Aviv in the 30 minutes it took to get to Jerusalem. Yet another thing people don’t know or understand about Israel. The train was filled with lots of different types of people. The diversity of Israel is amazing.

I dropped my bags at the hotel and went to walk the streets of Jerusalem. I found a nice coffee place and had a great conversation with the barista. Then I sat outside with my ‘Cafe Afuk’ (latte), relaxing in the beautiful weather, the peace of Jerusalem, and took it all in. The weather is spectacular. It was early morning so it was quiet. My heart and soul were full as I thought about how incredible it is that 2000 years after the Jews were expelled from this land by the Roman, we have a Jewish state and I am not only in it, but I’m in Jerusalem, the city built by King David thousands of years ago.

After coffee, I had to go to Machane Yehuda, the shuk. Normally when I go on Shabbat it is close to noon and it is packed with people shopping for Shabbat. Because it was early in the morning, it was not filled with Shabbat shopping craziness and I got to really enjoy walking the streets, browsing the stalls, and taking it all in. I stopped at Gluless, an amazing Gluten Free bakery that on Fridays has freshly baked gluten free Challah and Babka. It’s such a treat to buy freshly baked Challah and babka that is gluten free. (For those who don’t know, I have Celiac so can’t eat any gluten). Because it’s the beginning of my 12 day trip, I didn’t go crazy and buy as much as usual because I didn’t want it to go bad before I return home. I still bought plenty! I stopped for fresh dates and walnuts (replace the pit with the walnut and you have an incredibly delicious treat). I bought a nice bottle of wine for my Shabbat hosts (you never come empty handed and you don’t want to insult your host by bringing food unless asked to do so).

During my 20 minute walk back to my hotel, I was truly captivated by the reality of Israel and Jerusalem. It was quiet, peaceful, and I walked past Jews, Arabs and Christians. It is not what people see on the news. The people are not the villians the media wants to project. The country is beautiful, peaceful, filled with spirituality and connection. Unlike in America, I felt an intimate connection to the country. There is somthing special about Israel for people of all faiths. As I walked, the sun was out, the air was brisk with a slight breeze. People were bustling around. There was an energy, a vibe in the air. I took it all in as my heart was filled with joy and love.

My room was ready early so I had a chance to shower after the flight and take a little nap. On my flight to Israel, I rarely have an issue with jetlag and the nap felt good. I had plans to meet with a friend of mine who is just back from milium (reserve duty) but is returning tomorrow night to, as he jokingly calls it, ‘northern, northern Israel’ (Lebanon). We went to another coffeeshop near my hotel (the coffeshops here are amazing), sat outside and talked. He has some great ideas and I’m excited to see how I can help him accomplish them. As we talked about the war and what the future looks like, he shared some of what he has seen and experienced since October 7th. Despite all that I know, despite all that I have learned and continue to learn, depsite the many, various experiences I have had in Israel and about Israel, I found myself wondering if I was naive. Our conversation brought up more questions than answers, but that is also the reality of Israel. It’s not simple. It’s not easy. It is very complex and part of the problem we face when it comes to Israel is that the world doesn’t want or like complex. They want simple and our enemies make it simple. Of course, in Israeli fashion, as we were finishing the conversation, he asked if I had plans for Shabbat and invited me to join him and his family. That is Israel. We are all family and Israelis don’t want anybody to be alone on Shabbat and not have a Shabbat table to join. I already had Shabbat plans and I’m not sure who was disappointed more about my not joining his family for Shabbat, him or me!

As I walked to my friend’s home, about 20 minutes from my hotel, I was struck by the quiet and peace of Shabbat coming in at dusk. Very few cars were on the road. People were in their homes getting ready. The city seemed empty. I took deep breaths as I walked, inhaling the fresh Jerusalem pre-Shabbat air. I found myself wanting to share that walk and the beauty of Jerusalem as Shabbat is coming in with the world. This is the Israel that people all over the world need to see, feel and experience. The deep spiritual connection. The history. The people who only want to live in peace, celebrate being Jewish in meaningful ways, and fully diverse.

My friend’s house was buzzing as she had three (3) of her daughters there along with her grandson (1) and grandaughter (3) and adorable dog. She had told me that her two sons were spending Shabbat and the weekend with friends while her other two daughters didn’t live close and were with their families – yes, she has 7 children from 26 to 10 years old). Her husband came home and I had a chance to finally meet him. We began talking and enjoying each others company. Then it was time to make Kiddush. We sat at the table and sang Shalom Aleichem as the 3-year old grandaughter was stunned that I knew the Hebrew. We sang Eyshet Chail (a woman of valor) which I have never really learned and really want to. They blessed their daughters and grandchildren. It was wholesome and beautiful. We said kiddush (again the 3 year old couldn’t believe I knew Hebrew in any form) and made motzi (I brought my gluten free challah not just for motzi but because I knew we’d have hummus, matbucha, and other things that I’d want challah for. The conversation was light, fun, deep, and enjoyable. The food was delicious (including the best homemade gefilte fish I have ever had – a little bit spicy and nothing like what we get in the jars in the United States). Then her husband began to break out in song. Each of their children has a special song they sing made up just for them and related to their name. It was beautiful. Their 10-year old daughter was embarrassed when he began to sing her song so I made sure she knew that it was just an Abba (father) thing and asked if there was a song for him. Of course there was and they all sang it together. After dinner we had turkish coffee and continued to talk.

This was one of the most fulfilling Shabbat dinners I have ever had and I grew up with Shabbat dinner at home every single week. The love in the family, the joy of being together, being included as a part of their family and really feeling it, and being in Israel, in Jerusalem, was really special. I have an open invitation every Shabbat to be part of their family and I can’t wait to be back in Jerusalem for Shabbat to join them. It captured everything that is beautiful and special about Judaism. It was a perfect example of the Israel and Israeli people that I love. They told me if I’m here with family or friends, bring them to and I plan on doing that.

I think about the joy at their Shabbat table while their son-in-law is in milium, the joy that was happening at my friend’s shabbat table 24 hours before he goes back to milium once again, and I find myself wondering why the world has such a difficult time understanding that we only want to live and have peace. Our goal is not world domination but to live fully Jewish lives in our homeland, Israel, or where we live in the diaspora. I find myself wondering what it would take for people to see and feel the beauty of Israel and Judaism.

They joined me for the start of my walk home as we continued to talk. I finished the walk alone. Walking the streets of Jerusalem at midnight with no fear, no reservation, and took in the beauty all around me. I snapped a couple of pictures that captivated me, that hopefully express a little of what it is like.

From the first time I stepped foot in Jerusalem in 1989, it has captured my heart and soul. Today it went even deeper. I think it’s because of all the people who were so concerned for my safety in coming here while I have no concerns. I think it’s because so many people believe what they see on TV or read in the newspapers instead of what it is really like.

This is going to be a unique trip for me. I’ll be spending time around Ramallah, in and around Hebron, and in Beit Yala, seeing, learning, and experiencing some incredible work. I’ll spend a night in Haifa near the top of the Bahai Gardens, one of the most beautiful things in the world. And I’ll get so spend some time in Tel Aviv enjoying the beach and time with friends. I’ll be writing about it all. With the way this trip has begun, I’m excited to experience every moment and share what I see, think, and feel.

Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem