Waking up in the desert is always something special.  After breakfast, I took a short walk to Aroma to get my iced coffee, and the weather was amazing.  I didn’t want to get on the bus and go anywhere—just enjoy the weather and the beauty of the desert.  But I did get on the bus, and off we went.

We spent the morning in Yerucham, the partnership city of the Greater Miami Jewish Federation.  I’ve heard about Yerucham for years but have never visited.  It was a very cute town that looked and felt like most small towns.  We began by visiting a park with a beautiful lake.  As we looked out over the lake and learned about Yerucham, all of a sudden, a car drove up with a camel tied to the door, running alongside!  We were all shocked at what we saw.  The driver parked, got out, untied his camel from the car and took him to the water to drink and some bushes to eat.  It was one of the most bizarre things I have seen—a camel tied to a car, running alongside it.

The camel and its car.

We left the lake and headed to one of the many early childhood centers in Yerucham.  Interestingly enough, while they have many centers that run independently, they are all under the supervision of the same person.  Since this is Israel and we are currently counting the Omer, they had the 2- and 3-year-old children outside grinding wheat.  They also had them making their own pita bread, kneading the dough.  The little girl sitting next to where I was standing wasn’t doing anything with her dough, so I started to show her how to do it and we did it together.  We had so much fun and this little girl stole my heart.  As we left the school, she blew me kisses and my heart melted the way only a little child can make it melt.

We visited a facility that takes care of the needs of children.  In Israel, they have something called tipot chalav, or “drop of milk.” This is a medical center that provides all the healthcare needs for children.  Vaccinations, wellness checkups, etc.  They place these facilities in neighborhoods to make access easy for families with young children to ensure the children are healthy.  It was truly amazing to learn about and see in practice.  The sensory rooms were amazing and there was much to learn.

The community center was our final stop before lunch.  It was a combination of a public library and community center.  It was fascinating to see how they are both different from our JCCs and how similar they are.  How we share many of the same challenges and are coming up with similar solutions.  It inspired me to have colleagues in Israel addressing the same things, which means that maybe the challenges we face aren’t so unique!

For lunch, we went to an interesting restaurant.  It is a place in somebody’s home that is part of a program that retired women started to cook for tourists, keep themselves busy, generate revenue, and share their stories.  What started as one has now grown to five or six in Yerucham.  The food was delicious, and afterward we heard from two women about the program and their personal story.  It was truly inspiring.

While it felt like we’d already had a full day, we weren’t close to being done.  We left Yerucham and traveled to Nativ HaSarah, a small village right on the border of the Gaza Strip.  We met with a woman who lives there and has endured the challenges of all the rocket attacks.  As an artist, she decided to do something creative and created an organization called Path to Peace.  Using her art, she is decorating the walls protecting the town.  We heard her story and then got to select a small piece of pottery that spoke to us, write a message on the back, and take it with us to the border to place it on the wall, filling words like Peace, Shalom, etc.  This artwork faces Gaza so the people living there can see it.  It was incredible to be right at the border with Gaza and to imagine what it is like to have 5 seconds to get to safety when the alarm goes off.  It was depressing to see the children’s school bus stops are bomb shelters.  We can all hope and pray for peace throughout the world, however standing at the Gaza border, I felt no hope.  On the other side of the fence, Gaza looked so bleak to me.

Keith, Fara Gold, and Melissa Youngblood at the Path to Peace wall facing Gaza.

We left the border and headed north toward Jerusalem, but we had one more stop before returning to our hotel.  As the dusk began, so did Yom Hashoah (Holocaust Remembrance Day). I have never been in Israel for Yom HaShoah.  Our stop was to meet Ruth and hear her story as one of the Kindertransport children, who in 1939 left their parents and families in Germany and traveled to London to escape the Nazis and the death camps.  She was 13 when she left her family to board the train that would eventually take her to London.  At 97-years-old, Ruth often needed her daughter to repeat the question, however her memory of 1939 was crystal clear.

Hearing her tell the stories of how things changed for her and her family was horrifying and inspiring.  It was heartbreaking, and yet knowing she survived and has two children, six grandchildren, and a number of great-grandchildren gave me hope for the future.  Ruth was lucky in many ways—she went to London to a boarding school for refugees and was treated well.  Her parents were able to get out of Germany and they were reunited, although she didn’t live with them for a 3-year period.  She told us the story of her husband, who also escaped but lost his entire family to the Nazis.  Her daughter told us how her father (z”l) would never speak about his childhood and wouldn’t share any information about his parents, siblings, aunts, or uncles.  He refused to speak German and wouldn’t buy anything German.  Her aunt (Ruth’s younger sister) still lives in England and refuses to discuss the Kindertransport or anything about Germany.  This was a very special way to mark Yom Hashoah; even our visit to Yad Vashem tomorrow, also on Yom Hashoah, may not have the same impact as Ruth.

We left and headed to Jerusalem.  I always love seeing the lights of Jerusalem when you enter the city at night.  After checking into the hotel, I sat on my balcony looking out at the beauty of the city and took a few pictures to share.  It truly is the City of Gold, and I’m excited to spend a good part of tomorrow exploring the Old City, which never gets old for me.  A few of the people on the trip are here for their first visit to Israel, and being with them as they experience Jerusalem for the first time is also exciting.

At the Seder each year, we finish by saying, “Next year in Jerusalem.”  This year, I was able to say, “Next week in Jerusalem” (even though it was really more than a week) and I’m so happy to be here.

Today was all about the Negev Desert.  We began in Mitzpe Ramon at the crater.  It was incredible to see Israel’s Grand Canyon in person set against the beauty of the Negev Desert.  It was miles long and miles wide and truly massive.  It was incredible to sit looking out at the crater and the Negev in silence and just feel the power of the desert.  It is said the desert talks to you if you are quiet, and I definitely felt that today.   This was a spirituality that exists that words don’t codify.

We left the crater and headed to Sde Boker, the kibbutz in the Negev where David Ben Gurion, Israel’s first prime minister, is buried.  He believed the future of Israel was in the Negev, and in his late 60s retired as Prime Minister to join the kibbutz and live in the desert.  We visited both his grave and the grave of his wife Paula, who are prominently buried in a beautiful site.  We then walked around Sde Boker and headed to the part of the kibbutz dedicated to his memory which also includes the house that he and Paula lived in.

We learned a lot about the history of the kibbutz and about Ben Gurion—who he was, how he led, and what a truly amazing visionary and man that he was.  We had a chance to do some leadership and teamwork exercises together that were very interesting and I learned a lot about myself and others to bring back.  I’m excited to continue processing what teamwork really means and how competition can either enhance or destroy teamwork.

We had a chance to explore Ben Gurion’s home in Sde Boker.  It is preserved incredibly and the home was very modest, although a little bigger than I expected based on how it’s called a ‘hut’ and how the level of modesty was played up.  He and Paula had separate bedrooms and it was interesting to see the difference between them.  They had a small kitchen, which most homes on the kibbutz did not have, as there was a communal dining room.  We were told that Paula insisted upon it because she didn’t trust the food in the communal dining room!  The biggest two rooms were the living room and Ben Gurion’s office.

Ben Gurion’s home.

The overall visit made me want to read more about the life of David Ben Gurion.  I knew a lot, however he was much more complex and deep than I knew and I think there is a lot I can learn by learning more about him, the decisions he made, the challenges he faced, and how he lived his life.  I also didn’t realize just how short he was—I thought he was around 5’6, however he was really only about 5’1.

Our next stop was at the Ramat Negev Desert Agroresearch and Business Center.  Scientists from all over the world come there to study how to best develop solar energy and to harness the desert.  They have a huge solar tower and are generating huge amounts of energy.  They are finding new ways to grow fruit and vegetables in the desert, and we had a chance to taste some amazing strawberries they grow there.  They are finding ways to maximize crop development so the desert can provide both significant food and revenue.

Our final stop was back at the crater.  We saw it that morning with the sun rising and we had a chance to see it in the evening, as well.  The view was different at each time of day and it was quite meaningful both times.

Mitzpe Ramon.

The Negev is truly beautiful and impressive.  Making the desert bloom is a reality, and seeing what they are doing with energy and agriculture is astounding.  I have spent time in the Negev on previous trips, including sleeping out in the desert for two nights on my first trip—which was quite an experience—however today was the first time I felt the desert truly spoke to me.  I could spend days in Mitzpe Ramon at the crater just being and experiencing the power and beauty of the Negev.  It was meditative and peaceful.

Today began with meeting my friend Leor Sinai for coffee.  It was so good to catch up and I look forward to finding ways to work together in the future.

After coffee, my friends Avi and Irit Geva picked me up to show me Moshav life.  We drove north to Kfar Hayim, where they introduced me to their friend Nachman and his family who live on the Moshav and grow flowers.

It was amazing learning about how they grow and sell massive amounts of flowers all over the world.  I got to see the old cow shed from when they raised cows.  Six cows and one horse were in the shed—and per Avi, one donkey (he meant Nachman and laughed loudly as he said that).  I also got a great picture with Nachman (yes, he does look a little like David Crosby!).

Keith with Irit and Avi

Avi and Nachman

We drove south to Bitzaron, the moshav where Irit and Avi live.  We stopped in Gedera for lunch.  The salads were amazing and I got full just eating them.  Gedera was founded in 1884, 64 years before the founding of the State of Israel!

Before going to their home, we stopped at the ‘ranch’ that Irit manages.  It is 1,600 dunams (4 dunams = 1 acre) and was incredible to see.  They grow grapes for vineyards (green and red/purple), wheat, broccoli, cauliflower, almonds, and watermelons (they grow watermelon to harvest the seeds).  It was truly magnificent looking out at the world brought to life by the pioneers of the land.  Abi ripped off a head of broccoli and bit in—amazingly fresh.  It’s why the produce in Israel is so incredible.  They also showed me the bomb shelter they must have because terrorists in Gaza fire rockets that land near them.  We weren’t that close to Gaza—just outside Ashdod, 45 minutes from Tel Aviv.

We went to their home on the moshav to relax and talk.  They dropped me off at the airport to meet my JCC colleagues from around the country that are joining us for the next 11 days of intentional exploration and work. This includes my own colleagues Melissa Youngblood and Fara Pensky Gold.

As we drive south to Mitzpe Ramon, I am filled with gratitude for those pioneers who created the State of Israel.  From the early agricultural pioneers who created green and life from nothing, to those who built the amazing city of Tel Aviv from sand dunes in the early 1900s.

A thriving Israeli farm.

Israel is truly an amazing country that can’t be easily explained and must be truly experienced.  I’m excited for the next 11 days and what we will see and experience.

What a day!  

Waking up whenever (not setting an alarm has been truly amazing) and going down for a delicious Israeli breakfast with real lattes (for those of you who know Israel, this was not instant coffee with creamer but a real espresso machine with a barista!) is such a treat.  Sitting outside on the patio, enjoying the fresh air and birds chirping was simply wonderful.  I had planned on going to the beach, but the weather just didn’t quite seem beach-worthy, so instead I headed out to Shuk HaCarmel (the Carmel Market) to enjoy the sounds, sights, and smells. 

Somehow, I managed not to spend any money in the market – I’m still not sure how that happened.  I messaged with some friends in Tel Aviv and set up coffee for tomorrow with Leor Sinai and met with Daniel Milstein for lunch.  We walked and talked and found a wonderful place to eat and catch up.  The hours flew by, and I had to rush back to my hotel to change and get ready to meet my friend Adam Scott Bellos who invited me to a Mimouna in Jerusalem hosted by Vice-Mayor Fleur Hassan-Nahoum.  Adam runs The Israel Innovation Fund and Wine on the Vine, which are things I will talk about another time.

For those that don’t know what a Mimouna is, you are missing out.  Mimouna is a celebration based on the Moroccan Jewish community’s way of celebrating the end of Passover.  I was introduced to it years ago in Gainesville by a co-worker at UF Hillel who was Moroccan and created this event for us.  We held them in Orlando before COVID and I can’t wait to have it return next year.

At the Mimouna with friends.

Up close with some of the delicacies.

We took a cab from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem along with Adam’s co-worker and friend, Hallel Silverman, and enjoyed a fantastic conversation.  When we arrived, Fleur’s home was already packed, the food was ridiculous in appearance (being gluten-free, I only had the fruit), and people were having fun.  I met so many great people there, and there are so many opportunities that are beginning for our Orlando Jewish community just from this one encounter.  The Mayor of Jerusalem, Moshe Leon, showed up, as did many other high-profile people.  I even ran into somebody I knew from Seattle there (that is what happens in Israel, you meet people who are just there).  We had a fantastic time—the house got so packed, I ended up spending half the time on the front porch or in the street because of the overflow!

We left to return to Tel Aviv and continued to laugh and have fun on the ride.  Adam told me about Chef Ayal Shani, one of Israel’s top chefs, who happens to have a restaurant (Abraxas) half a block from my hotel.  So even though it was late, we went for dinner.  Of course, the restaurant was full of reservations, but somehow they managed to find us a table with just a 30-minute wait.  As we sat at our table, we ran into people Adam knew.  Of course, they were from St. Pete and the dad has driven past the Roth Family JCC many times!  Both daughters had made Aliyah, and one is a major foodie in Israel and plans special food related tours!   Guess what will be on agenda in 2023? 

This is the essence of Israel: you see and meet people everywhere with a close connection.  It was amazing to talk with them and play ‘Jewish geography’ with all the people we knew in common.  I didn’t even know them until I walked to our table, yet suddenly we were connected.

For dinner, we got the broccoli and shwarma to share—both were amazing—and continued to have fun talking about Israel, America, the Jewish community, and much more.  Suddenly, it was midnight.  As I returned to my hotel, I thought about the full day I had.  The many experiences that filled the day and filled my soul.  How accessible the leadership of the country truly is.  How friendly the Israeli people are and how wonderful it is to be in Israel experiencing Israel itself.

Tomorrow, my friend Irit Geva is picking me up to visit their Moshav.  We have discussed this for over a decade and are finally making it happen.  And then the formal part of my trip begins.  It marks a shift from just wandering and experiencing Israel to something just as wonderful but also very different.  It’s a bittersweet transition, as most are.

When I come to Israel, I usually end up writing a lot and posting my thoughts, impressions, and the impact being in Israel has on me.  Arriving Thursday night, I haven’t written and it’s now Sunday.  A big part of that delay is that after the past 2+ years, I needed to have a chance to just decompress.  I came to Israel a few days before my formal trip began to do just that.  I picked a hotel that I love in Tel Aviv, centrally located, where I can walk everywhere.  And for the past few days, I have simply been.  I had nowhere to go, nobody to be responsible to, and no expectations.  It was the end of Passover and Shabbat, so there truly were no stresses.  And I got to decompress some.  Now that I have had some time to just be, I feel compelled to write.

Flying overnight from JFK to Ben Gurion is always a great flight.  I’m tired from the day, so I end up sleeping a good portion of the 11-hour flight.  This time, I sat next to a wonderful elderly couple.  She was born and raised in Tel Aviv.  He was born and raised in Austin, Texas.  They lived in Tel Aviv for years and for the past decade have been back in Austin.  We talked about Tel Aviv, Austin, and enjoyed each other’s company.  How often does that happen on flight?  Usually, you can’t wait to get off and leave whoever you were stuck sitting next to.  We only spent 11 hours together (5 of which I slept) yet I already miss my new friends.

Arriving in Tel Aviv, it was difficult getting a cab.  The airport was busy, my ‘Gett’ (Israeli Uber) canceled on me and I couldn’t find another one.  Finally, I found an exchange student at Tel Aviv University who shared his cab with me.  A 19-year-old from the Flatbush Yeshiva spending two years at Tel Aviv University studying computer science and a 54-year-old JCC and Federation exec had a great conversation as we drove.  It is the essence of Jewish community—different and yet similar.  I Venmoed him my half of the cab fare and again had a new friend.  After checking in, I took a much needed shower and went across the street for dinner before climbing into bed and getting a good night’s sleep.

Friday was my Israeli breakfast (truly the best meal anywhere) and off to the beach.  Unfortunately, most things were closed due to the last days of Passover, but the beach certainly wasn’t.  I grabbed a chair (16 shekels or $5—a bargain) and enjoyed the view of the Mediterranean Sea, feet in the sand, and a quiet and peaceful morning.  People started showing up around 11 and it got hectic with families, children, and fun in the water.  It was such a pleasure to lay back and watch.  I put on some Grateful Dead and enjoyed just being in Israel.  People took out the lunches they packed—matzoh of course because it’s Passover!

I smiled, because where else would you see a beach filled with people enjoying themselves and eating matzah, if not Israel?

Around 3 p.m., the beach emptied as people wanted to get home for Shabbat.  I walked back to the hotel, enjoying the vibe of Tel Aviv and Israel.  A shower and nap and then it was time for dinner.  I found a well-regarded Thai restaurant about 20 minutes from my hotel, so off I went.  Israel has been in the news this month for the violent attacks by terrorists and it’s easy to wonder why I would walk alone, in the dark, around Tel Aviv, to get to a restaurant I’ve never been to.  I learned on my first trip to Israel in 1989 that while the news reporting about Israel may be factual, it often isn’t accurate.  Yes, there were terrorists killing people here, however we saw the same thing this month in the USA (Brooklyn, Washington DC, even Miami when we were there for a conference).  I always feel safe in Israel, and this is no different now.  So I walked, in the dark, to find the restaurant.  When I got there, it was packed!  No space and no more reservations.  The host told me he would try to squeeze me in but it may take a while.  About an hour later, I had a table and the food was amazing.  I was so happy to have the 25-minute walk home afterwards, because I was so full!

Yesterday was Shabbat, so I took it easy.  Slept in, had breakfast, and sat on the hotel’s amazing balcony to enjoy the weather.  Other guests joined me there and we wished each other Shabbat Shalom.  It was restful and relaxing.  Walked to get lunch and dinner, but most of the day was spent on the balcony enjoying the sun, the breeze, and simply being in Israel.

Today promises to be filled with some new wonders and new experiences.  I have my first true Israeli Mimouna in Jerusalem that a friend invited me to.  The Shuk HaCarmel is open (finally) to walk and do some shopping.  Jaffa, another 25-minute walk, could be another option.  It’s one of the things I love about Israel – there is never a shortage of things to do, places to explore, or people to meet. Tomorrow afternoon or early evening, the trip I came here for begins and I’m so excited to spend the next 11 days with my JCC cohorts in exploration of Israel, of ourselves, and our mission and passion.

A Mimouna to remember…

…with dear friends!

For those of you who have never been to Israel, COME.  For those of you that have, COME BACK.  It is truly a unique place that can never be fully explained and can only be experienced.

This morning, we visited Hebron, the second holiest city in Judaism.  It’s the place where our matriarchs and patriarchs are buried.  Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebeca, Jacob and Leah (Rachel is buried where she died).  This is also believed to be where Adam and Eve are buried at the entrance to the Garden of Eden.  It’s a place I have always wanted to visit, but never have due to security concerns.  Hebron is a contested area between the Palestinians and Israelis.  Most of the city is controlled by the Palestinian Authority and is in Area A (if you look back in my blog to my Encounter trip you will learn about Area A).  There have been many violent clashes in Hebron.  But it was on my bucket list, and off we went!

A moment to remember.

It was a beautiful drive and as we pulled into Hebron, I started getting really excited.  Patrick, our tour guide, pointed out the parking lot and told us that was the parking lot for Abraham, where he parked his camels and where he circumcised himself and met the three angels who told him that he and Sarah would have a son.  It was unbelievable to be there.

Patrick told us that the building we were walking into was built by King Herod over 2,000 years ago and amazingly is completely intact.  The floors we will be walking on were the original floors from 2,000 years ago.  The walls were the same.  It is the oldest intact building still used for its original purpose in the world!  I walked up the steps and as I entered the tomb of our matriarchs and patriarchs, I was humbled, and then—THERE, right in front of me was the tomb of Jacob.  It was awe inspiring.  For some reason I thought I would see Abraham’s tomb first, but it was Jacob.  As I walked down the hall, I saw the tomb that contained the head of Esau (it’s an interesting story, but I won’t tell it here).  I turned the corner and there was Abraham’s tomb.  Right across from it was Sarah’s tomb.  I went around the corner and on the other side of Jacob’s tomb was Leah’s tomb.   I would have loved to see the tomb of Isaac and Rebecca, however they are on the other side, close to the mosque.  Unfortunately, Jews are only allowed to go there 10 days a year.  Amazingly, one of them is next Shabbat (Saturday) when we tell the story of Sarah’s death.   We learned that there is a huge celebration with more than 30,000 people attending.  And the entire area is open to Jews so you can visit Isaac and Rebecca’s tombs.

After spending some time at each tomb, totally awed by being in this location, I put on tefillin, and we davened Shacharit (the morning service).  I am not the most religious person, but to do this in this location was powerful.  It was a total connection to more than 3,000 years of Jewish life, and a very spiritual experience.  When we concluded, we went into the room that has Abraham’s tomb on one side and Sarah’s on the other.  Harry Rothenberg, quite possibly the best Jewish educator I have ever encountered, led us in a session about Abraham and Sarah’s relationship using the story of the angel telling Abraham they would have a son and Sarah laughing.  It ended as a love story, made all the more beautiful by us being there with Abraham on one side and Sarah on the other.  Again, I was completely awed and blown away.

Hebron and the tombs of our matriarchs and patriarchs are usually packed and busy.

For some reason this morning, it was totally empty.  And by totally empty, I mean we were the ONLY people there.  We had the whole place to ourselves.  This made it even more special as I had the time to really connect without interruptions and without any noise from other groups.  Without a doubt, this was one of the most spiritual experiences I have ever had.

The Tomb of the Patriarchs and Matriarchs.

As we left through security, we passed a line of Israeli students waiting to get in.  A second bus of students pulled up and began to unload.  As we watched, a third bus arrived.  Maybe it was just a coincidence, but I choose to believe it was a gift from God, giving us this special time.

We headed down the road to the neighborhood of Avraham Aveinu (Abraham our Father).  This is one of three neighborhoods in Hebron home to the approximately 800 Jews here.  We toured the 500-year-old synagogue and then went to the rabbi’s home.  We listened with interest as he shared their mission in Hebron—to take care of the spiritual needs of the soldiers who are stationed there.  It is a three-month rotation and can be very difficult.  He told us we were the first visitors he’d had in 18 months because of COVID!  He also showed us a video of what next Shabbat will look like, and it was AWESOME.  Think of a music festival, but in Hebron and because of the anniversary of Sarah’s death.  Then it was time to leave, so we grabbed some pizza for the ride back to Jerusalem, and off we went.

What an incredible morning.  I am still filled with awe at having been so close to the tombs of our matriarchs and patriarchs.  To be in the place where it’s believed that Adam and Eve are buried.  I still get chills now, hours later when I think of it.  

Today is our last day in Israel, so we had a few hours of wrap up work to do.  Evaluations of the program, a few talks to us by Charlie Harari and Ari Shabat, and then it was time to head to the final banquet.

The final banquet was amazing.

We were out on a huge balcony, surrounded by dinner stations filled with amazing food.  Each station was better than the next.  There was an open bar with beer, wine, and sodas.  The temperature was perfect, the sun was still out, and we had a great view of the Old City of Jerusalem.  It was so amazing.  After about an hour, we went into the banquet hall and the Orlando group sat together.  There were amazing Israeli salads and pita on the table, and then they brought out our dinner, an amazing steak and chicken dinner.  After we ate, the dancing began, and the room was filled with ruach (spirit).  It was incredibly cool.  And then it got cooler.

Into the room walked Ambassador David Friedman!  When the speeches started, he was the keynote and he gave an inspiring talk about Israel and the Jewish people, downplaying his role in moving the embassy to Jerusalem and with the Abraham Accords.  When he finished to a standing ovation and returned to his seat, he was mobbed by people wanting to talk to him, shake his hand, and take a picture.  I waited until it slowed down and went over myself.  He could not have been nicer.  It was amazing to have him join us.

As we wrapped up the banquet, Charlie Harari gave us a charge to continue doing something a little more Jewish than what we had before.  He led us in one of the most spirited and meaningful versions of Am Yisrael Chai that I have ever heard, let alone been a part of.  It was incredible and very moving.  We began to say our goodbyes, and there were lots of hugs and plans to get together with those from L.A., Atlanta, and Long Island.  We boarded the bus and headed to the airport.

I’m sitting at our gate now, about to board the plane, and am in awe.  This has been an incredible week.  As usual, I hate leaving Israel.  I miss my family and have an entire life in Orlando…but there is something so special and unique about Israel that I always hate to leave.  Sitting in the Tel Aviv airport waiting to board the flight home is always so depressing for me.  

When we take off, I know I will be overcome with sadness as I leave Israel.  I also know that I will never leave Israel behind, just physically leave the country.  Israel is my spiritual home.  I am fully connected to this country, its people, its history, and its significance.

As I finish this trip, my wish to all of you is that you come here and begin to experience it yourself.  That connection comes quickly and is very powerful, and is one of the best feelings you will have.  L’hitraot, Israel—until we meet again,

Shabbat morning meant my visit to the Great Synagogue.  I’ve been inside before, but never for Shabbat.  We donned our masks, showed our green passes (proof of vaccination), put on our tallitot, and entered the beautiful shul.   The Torah service had already begun at 9 a.m.!  The young man reading Torah (he had to be between 13-15) was truly amazing.  His strong, clear voice rang out, and we were all captivated at his talent and the beauty of the Torah reading.  I was moved by his skill.  While I don’t speak Hebrew and didn’t know what he was reading, I was captivated by every word.  It was truly beautiful.  Of course, the entire service was in Hebrew and the tunes were different, so I struggled to follow along.  And then, at 10:30 a.m., we were finished!  I was shocked that the service was that fast.  As our group exited the Great Synagogue, we talked about how amazing the boy was, how he truly captivated us, and how astounded we were that the service ended so quickly.

After a brief rest, I went to listen to Adrienne Gold speak to us.  We are the first group of the Men’s Momentum Trip that she has spoken with, and she had previously spoken to us at the Women’s Mikvah in Tzfat.  Once again, she had an interesting perspective to offer, and there were things that resonated and things that didn’t.  I will be thinking about her two talks for some time, processing and discerning what fits best for me.

The Momentum Men’s Trip meeting IDF soldiers earlier in the trip.

Shabbat afternoon meant choosing between rest or a tour of the Old City.

Having toured the Old City many times—and knowing that nothing will be open on Shabbat—I took advantage of the opportunity to rest and relax, contemplating the trip and what I’ve learned about myself during our time in Israel.  I’ve had many fascinating discussions with the other men on the trip.  My mind is spinning with some of the topics, both personally and professionally, and I don’t expect to have many answers in the coming days.  There is definitely a lot of processing yet to be done, however one thing that I know already is that personal growth will come from the trip.

We returned to the Old City for Havdalah, the ceremony that bridges Shabbat and the rest of the week.  Pamela and Aba Cleman opened their home to us.  It’s an absolutely magnificent home in the Old City, overlooking the Kotel at the edge of the Muslim quarter.  Their rooftop has an exquisite view and we enjoyed it as we ate and learned about the work they do with Thank Israel Soldiers, a nonprofit they created to support and provide for the needs of Israel’s soldiers throughout their service and their transition out of the IDF.  We heard from soldiers about their experiences, and it was very moving.

The stunning view from their roof.

One thing I haven’t mentioned yet is that some Israelis joined our group.

They come from all walks of life and have been an incredible addition.  One of our Israeli participants got up and shared his story with us.  It was incredibly moving and really touched my heart, and gave me some first-hand understanding of what these brave soldiers face that is never in the news.  His role in the IDF was as commander of a special unit, and one day his commander sent his unit to a town where a terrorist had taken captive a woman and her daughter (who was in a wheelchair).

The terrorist had stabbed them both, and barricaded himself with them in their home.  The soldier’s unit broke down the door and a gun battle ensued.  In the battle, he killed the terrorist, but not before he was shot, too.  He had to be airlifted out with the mother and her daughter.  After waking in the hospital, he learned neither captive survived their injuries.  He was devastated.

A few weeks later, he had to return to the town to help understand what happened.  The husband and father of the victims approached him and asked if he was the commander.  When he said yes, the man told him that it was all his fault, that they arrived too late.  This only added to the soldier’s devastation, and he decided he was responsible for not saving them and that he would leave the army.  But before his commander would allow him to leave, they sent him with a group of soldiers to Poland to tour the death camps.  While there, they had a special trip to the north of Italy.  While walking the streets, an elderly man came up to them, kissing the Israeli flag on their uniforms and asking if they were from the IDF.   When he told the man that yes, they were, the man yelled at him that they were too late.  Where were they when his family was murdered by the Nazis?  All the soldiers took this to heart—they could not come during the Shoah, because there was no Jewish army.  He decided to return to service.

Soon after, he received another call from his commander that there was another terrorist in a town right next to the first town.  All he could think of was what the people in the town must be thinking and feeling, and what his responsibility was.  He took his team there, and they began searching.  He ended up face-to-face with the terrorist, and shot him before he could harm anybody.  Afterward, a woman in the town came up to him and asked if he was the commander of the unit.  When he said yes, she told him they had arrived just in time.  

This hero epitomizes the IDF.  They are there to keep Israel and Israeli’s safe.  They are here to protect the Jewish people and to provide assistance to those in need around the world.  They put their lives at risk to keep us safe, and we owe them a tremendous debt of gratitude.  I had the pleasure of sitting next to him, and gave him a big hug when he returned to our table.  I feel an obligation to do more to help support our IDF soldiers and will see what I can do to make a difference.

The view from the other side of the roof

After Havdalah on the rooftop, we had free time.  I have many friends living in Israel, and a good number of them live in Jerusalem.  As much as I wanted to see them all, the structure of the trip only provided limited time to do so, and I couldn’t see most.  Tonight, I had a chance to meet with my former student and longtime friend, Margot.  I sent Margot to Israel for her first trip and found ways to send her back again.  In her work, I provided the spark that lit her fire, and she made aliyah years ago and as it turns out, lives a few blocks from our hotel.  We sat together and got sparkling water and a cheese plate and just talked and talked and talked.  It was wonderful to hear about her family and her kids, her job, and the exciting things happening.  Since Sunday is a work day in Israel, we had to stop around 10:45.

Hanging with Margot at a cafe in Jerusalem

It’s amazing having so many connections to this country.  They seem to get deeper all the time—and every time I’m here, I begin thinking about my next trip back before I even leave.  Israel is not just an amazing country; it is a powerful concept and a true homeland.  When you are here, it begins to seep into your soul—and the more you return, the more it becomes an essential part of who you are.  I’m at that place in my relationship with Israel where it is a vital part of my being.  In just the six days we’ve been here, my soul has been refreshed.  My spirit has been inspired.  And even though I am exhausted from the long days, the walking, the hills, and the mountains, I am also incredibly refreshed.

Israel is special and while you can appreciate it without being here, you can’t begin to understand the depth and the connection until you visit.  You can’t understand the deep warmth of the people, of being part of a national family, until you are here.  I hope to be able to take many of you to explore Israel, to have it touch your soul, and to change your life.

When I woke up today, I was excited because it was Shabbat—and sad because I had to get my PCR test to fly home on Sunday.  It was both the culmination of an amazing and exhausting week, and also the reminder that I will be leaving Israel far too soon.

Wandering the streets of Jerusalem.

The PCR testers didn’t show up in the morning as planned, so we left to start our day and they returned later.  In an old synagogue around the corner, we gathered to do some traditional yeshiva-style learning.  To be honest, years ago that would have made me yawn and try to find some excuse to not do it.  I’ve since had great experiences with great teachers, and enjoy it.  One of the best parts of this trip has been our excellent educators, and today we had one of the finest that I have encountered: Harry Rothenberg.

Harry is an attorney by trade, yet is one of the most amazing teachers of Torah that I have encountered.

He taught us Torah and Talmud with case studies that involved Mark Zuckerberg, Tom Bradyfeld, Bryce Harperstein, and Julio Jonesberg (get the puns and the joke?).  With over forty men, many of whom had never done this before, we discussed the cases and had a fun and interactive discussion.  We debated in chevrutas (pairs of two), and then as a big group.  The time flew by as we debated Torah.  It was extraordinary to see the impact of a skilled teacher, and the experience renewed my gratitude for all the work our teachers in Orlando do at the Roth and Rosen JCCs, the Jewish Academy of Orlando, the Orlando Torah Academy, and all our synagogue religious schools and youth and adult education programs.

A sneak peak of our Torah study.

After a break (and our PCR tests), we were inspired by Ari Shabat as he tied together being a man, husband, father, and Jew.  Four different roles interwoven in deep, meaningful ways.  We enjoyed hearing from Ari, and we all spoke of his wisdom as we left the shul.

Then came my favorite thing of all: FREE TIME!

We had the afternoon free to explore.  Off we went to Machane Yehuda, the big shuk in Jerusalem.  It was astounding to see how busy and packed it was.  Yes, it was just before Shabbat—but I’ve been there on Fridays before, and I had never seen it this busy.  We got in the long line at Marzipan to start.  If you have been to Israel before, you know that Marzipan has THE BEST chocolate rugalach in the world.  They were hot out of the oven and smelled incredible.

As we fought through the crowds, those here for their first time learned what it’s like if you wait in a line in Israel: You wait! And wait! And wait!  Here in Israel, if you want to get anywhere, you must keep moving forward with a quick, “Selicha (excuse me).”  We shopped around the market, exploring and simply enjoying the atmosphere.  The fresh fruits, nuts, spices, baked goods, halva, and so much more were incredible to see.  While it was very crowded, the energy and excitement in the shuk inspired and excited me.  I loved the buzz and the vibe.

After wandering around the shuk, we took a walk down to Mea Shearim, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Jerusalem and home to Haredim.  It was interesting to see a different way of Jewish observance, and our visit sparked some very interesting conversations.  One of the guys on the trip sent me a message on WhatsApp that he found a gluten-free bakery at Machane Yehuda, so we turned around and headed back.  When we got there, they had these amazing gluten-free challahs that had just come out of the oven.  I got a small one to eat right there, and a large one for Shabbat dinner.  The hot, fresh out of the oven, gluten-free challah was delicious.  We elbowed our way through the shuk to find a place for lunch, and finally sat down to eat and relax.

Mountains of fresh challah.

After returning to the hotel to get ready for Shabbat, we headed back to the Old City.

Charlie Harary amped us up for the experience at the Kotel, and prepared those who have never spent Shabbat at the Kotel for what they’d experience.  We headed to the area we had reserved, gathered together, and looked around.

There were all types of Jews there, and we had a chance to introduce ourselves to them and wish them a Shabbat Shalom.  It was so cool to connect with Jews wearing shtreimels (the big fur hats) and white stockings, Jews wearing black hats and kippot, IDF soldiers, and teens.  We were all there to celebrate Shabbat, and it was one of the most unifying things I have ever been a part of.

We began services, singing together loudly.  I looked over and saw the other groups all watching us in awe.  I think many religious Israelis are surprised when they see American Jews actually praying and singing and dancing.  As we finished one section, one of the other groups began singing loudly as if in competition with us.  It was awesome to see.  We continued with services, and gradually the soldiers and teens came and joined ours.  Our group got big, and we all sang, danced and prayed together.  It was an awesome experience.

When services ended, we still had about 30 minutes before we had to head in for Shabbat dinner.  Patrick, our tour guide, offered to take us somewhere ‘cool’.  A group of us fought through the mass of people at the Kotel for Shabbat and followed him.  We exited the Kotel area and entered the Muslim quarter, where he took us right up to the entrance of where Muslims head up to the Al-Aqsa Mosque and Dome of the Rock.  There were two Israeli soldiers there to make sure that only Muslims could go through the arch and up toward the mosques.  Patrick explained that this was to protect the Muslim sacred prayer space for them and ensure they had the ability to pray at their holy site without being bothered by tourists.  There is access to the Temple Mount for Jews, but only on certain days and times to ensure there is no conflict with Muslims’ need to pray.  I’d never been to that part of the Muslim quarter before, so it was interesting to see it and learn a bit more.

We left the Muslim quarter and heading to Aish HaTorah for Shabbat dinner.  The Aish building is massive and right in front of the Kotel.  We headed up for Shabbat dinner and sat with the other men from Orlando.  It was fun sitting with all these new friends and celebrating Shabbat together.  The food was delicious—with more than enough for everyone— and it was a wonderful night of community.  I had the chance to spend quality time with my dear, long-time friend, Rabbi Josh Brodie, and we had a great conversation.  After dinner, it was back to the hotel, and we sat on the patio, once again eating and drinking.  This time, we had an open question and answer session with our trip leaders and the rabbis who were on the trip.  Any question was fair game, and it was quite interesting.

Today was probably my favorite day.  I got a real taste of almost every part of being Jewish.  The mind with our Torah study, the body with all the walking, the spirit at Machane Yehuda, and the soul at the Kotel for Shabbat.  I got to experience friendship and community.  Another exhausting day—but also incredibly fulfilling. 

Tomorrow, I am going to the Great Synagogue for services.  It’s something I have wanted to do since I first had a chance to explore and visit there some 15 years ago.  It’s a beautiful and magnificent place, so I am very excited.  

I had to set my alarm for 5 a.m. because we were leaving Jerusalem at the crack of dawn to travel to Masada and the Dead Sea. I’ve been to both about a dozen or so times, and they are both very cool and fun to explore. The only thing that stinks is the super early morning wake-up. We drove south through the desert, and it wasn’t long before we were below sea level. Bedouin encampments dotted the landscape, and the desert had this beautiful, mysterious look to it. When I got the first glimpse of the Dead Sea, I was captivated, as I always am. It’s very big, it’s a stunning aquamarine, and it’s bordered by the most picturesque mountains. It’s truly breathtaking. As we approached Masada, the mountains began to dominate the area. It’s a beautiful drive.

Atop Masada.

We got off the bus and went into the Masada welcome center. I usually walk up either the snake path or the Roman path (although it’s been well over a decade since I walked up the snake path), but this time I took the cable car. After a long flight and longer days, I opted to get to the top the easy way. One member of our Orlando group decided to run to the top. This is his first time visiting Israel, and he wanted the challenge. From the cable car, I could see him way ahead of the group, gradually nearing the top. As it turns out, he reached the top of Masada and all the way to the north palace in under 19 minutes! We were all in awe.

As we gathered at the top of Masada, there was another group there. They were a pre-army preparation group, and it was fun to talk with them. There is no question how important military service is in Israel and what a key part of Israeli identity it is.

We began our tour of Masada by celebrating b’nai mitzvah for men on the trip who hadn’t had one. It was so exciting and filled with joy and ruach (spirit). We sang and celebrated them. In the ancient synagogue atop Masada, there is a sofer (scribe) writing a Sefer Torah. We had the opportunity to go in and ‘write’ a word in the Torah by touching his arm as he wrote the word and saying a blessing. It was an honor to get to write a word in a new Torah that will go somewhere in Israel.

Writing a word of Torah.

After the b’nai mitzvah, we began our tour of the mountain.

Having done this many times, I know the story and wasn’t totally invested. But then our tour guide did something amazing—he began sharing historical information I had never heard before, about Herod the Great, the Roman Empire, and placed Masada firmly in that context. He explained everything that happened to get to the point where the Jews of Masada found themselves besieged by the Romans. It was fascinating.

As we wrapped up, our guide shared some words of wisdom that his rabbi shared with him, which applied to both Masada and our lives today: “Figure out what it is that you would die for—and then begin living for it.” Such simple yet profound words, and certainly something to aspire to. I know this is one lesson I will be taking home with me.

The view from Masada.

After descending in the cable car, we had a quick lunch and then made our way to the Dead Sea. The area we were in was a private men’s section. It was filled with amazing salt crystals that were like rocks. I was grateful that I had my water shoes to protect my feet. We loaded up on Dead Sea mud and spread it all over ourselves to get the healing power of its minerals. And then it was into the Dead Sea!

The Dead Sea is hard to truly explain.

It’s approximately 35% salt content. (The ocean is approximately 3%.) You feel every cut on your body when you first enter the water, and it doesn’t take long for the buoyancy to kick in, and all of a sudden you’re floating. It’s a very cool feeling, as your body is mostly out of the water and you aren’t doing anything to make that happen. You float, talk with others, and relax. After about 45 minutes in the Dead Sea, it was time to get out, change clothes, and move on.

Our final stop of the day was Ammunition Hill. Ammunition Hill was the site of a critical battle in the Six Day War of 1967 that allowed the recapture and reunification of Jerusalem. It memorializes the 182 soldiers that died in the Six Day War. Most of them were paratroopers who died at Ammunition Hill. It’s truly a special place and has meant something to me since I first visited in 1989 on my first trip.

This time we did something different: we played laser tag on the actual battlefield. The guns we used looked and felt like real rifles, and we split into two teams with different objectives that were related to the Battle of Ammunition Hill. Our team lost the first exercise and then won the second one. In the final team exercise, we lost. Each exercise was very challenging and helped us understand just a little bit of what the paratroopers faced. We then went into the Bruce K. Gould Auditorium (named for our very own Bruce Gould!) where we heard from Alon Wald, the Head of Operations. Alon’s father was one of the paratroopers who was killed during the Battle of Ammunition Hill. It was a powerful and inspiring talk.

We headed back to the hotel for a quick shower, and then it was off to dinner. We walked to the Old Train Station, which is now a hip area with restaurants, bars, coffee shops, and live entertainment. I’ve been there before, but not at night when it was alive like this. There was a real energy in the air, and it really felt like pre-COVID times. It put a smile on my face and in my heart. Dinner was delicious. We ordered a bunch of different appetizers, and our entrees were fantastic. It was a wonderful dinner with great conversation.

The rest of the Orlando crew went off to visit the Mir Yeshiva, the largest yeshiva in the world with over 8,000 students while I went back to the hotel, completely exhausted after three very long and very intense days.

Tomorrow will be Shabbat, and I’m excited to be here in Jerusalem and to visit the Kotel for Shabbat. It’s something truly special, and I’m excited to share it with the men on this trip. We are forming amazing bonds while doing personal exploration, and really opening up with each other and the larger group. It’s an incredible thing to be a part of and to watch happening day by day.

Every day that starts with an Israeli breakfast is a good one.  Today was no exception.  Amazing food, good company, and your choice of caffeine from the espresso machine.  Then it was off to Yad Vashem.

The Orlando contingent in Jerusalem.

I have been to Yad Vashem many times—at least a dozen, and likely more.  I’ve seen it, felt it…and to be perfectly honest, I am no longer truly excited to go.

This time began differently, which had a major impact on my perspective.  First, Patrick, our own guide, gave us the tour, rather than a dedicated Yad Vashem tour guide.  Second, our first stop was the children’s memorial, instead of finishing there.  Third, a discussion beforehand reframed Yad Vashem for me.  I’d always seen it as a depressing reminder of the Shoah.  I was sad in the beginning watching the home videos of Jews who likely all died at the hands of the Nazis.  Then I grew angry as the buildup to the Final Solution was shown, then depressed at the loss of life, and finally inspired by the view at the end which provides hope.   It’s an emotional roller coaster.

Patrick framed it differently.  It was about overcoming and survival.  It was about the Jews who stood up to remain Jewish even facing death.  It was about the future that was stolen from us—and that we are remaking. 

Yad Vashem was empty when we walked in.  I’m used to bustling tourist crowds—being pushed to move forward by other groups—missing things because I can’t see around the masses.  This time, it was only us and one older couple (the impact of COVID on tourism).  It was depressing, but also incredibly refreshing and inspiring.  We stayed in the main entry for a while, and I watched the home videos with more focus than ever before.  They were filled with the most beautiful footage of families, young and old.  Despite my deep sadness, I smiled.  And then the schoolchildren video singing Hatikvah came on, and my heart broke once again.  That video always hurts my heart.  These beautiful children, so filled with live and future, singing such a beautiful song of hope, who were all murdered by the Nazis.  It was more haunting than ever before.  

As we made our way through the halls, it all looked different to me.  I don’t know if it’s getting older, or the ways my life has changed since my last visit, or even Patrick’s new framing.  I really paid attention to each picture and truly saw the people in it.  And in the blink of an eye, the people in those pictures became my family, the loved ones at my wedding, my children.  I realized as I looked at the dates that we are coming up on 100 years since the beginning of the Shoah.  I no longer saw myself as the young person who would be forced to work or be part of the resistance.  I was now the old person who would have been murdered right away.  My children would be the resistance.  My grandchildren would be the ones in the children’s memorial.  It was surreal to see things that way—and very powerful.

There was a deep pain in this realization—yet also an incredible joy that nearly 100 years since the Third Reich came to power, here I am, in Israel.  I have two Jewish children who will hopefully raise Jewish grandchildren.  Despite the catastrophic loss, we won.  As we left Yad Vashem, I felt hope, not sadness.

Next, we walked to Har Herzl, the Israeli Jerusalem military cemetery.  It is always very moving for me to be there.  I make it a point to stop at Golda Meier’s grave every visit and say a little thank you.  I pay tribute to the leaders who are there for the sacrifices they made for the State of Israel.  This was the first time I saw Simon Peres’s grave.  He is the only one of them that I actually met in person.  I stopped to say hello along with my thank you.  We strolled through the cemetery looking at graves, reading names and ages.  So many of the solders buried there are so young.  We climbed to the top to pay tribute to Theodore Herzl, the founder of Zionism, who believed that Jews needed their own sovereign state and began the process that resulted in the creation of the State of Israel.   Visiting Har Herzl always fills me with gratitude and awe, and this time was no different.

Our day was only half over at this point—and it was already a full day!  Our next stop was the Old City of Jerusalem.

We toured the Jewish quarter, got lunch, and then headed to the Aish HaTorah building where we got to view the Old City from their rooftop deck.  It’s something I’d never done before and I was awestruck by the view.  It was simply beautiful and inspiring.  After lots of pictures, we went to the Kirk Douglas theater (yes, named for that Kirk Douglas), where Charlie Harary spoke to us.  Charlie is very inspiring and spoke to us about our relationship with God and how it’s really a father-child relationship, not a king-subject relation.  It is, after all, Aveinu Malkenu (Our FATHER, our King), not just our King.  He urged us to go to the Kotel (the Western Wall) and simply speak openly with God, our Father, and not worry about saying the wrong thing.

Having been to the Kotel many, many times, I have my rituals.  Charlie’s words changed them.  Instead, I followed his suggestion.  Like at Yad Vashem, the Kotel was empty.  I’m used to it being full, waiting for a spot to get close, and encountering beggars.  Today, I walked right up.  As usual, I placed my forehead against the Kotel and began to speak to God.  While I won’t share my prayers with you, it was very deep and very meaningful.  I was fully focused for the first time ever and blocked everything out.  I don’t know how long I stayed there but when I was done, I began to pay attention to the service happening next to me.    I listened for a bit and then left.  On my way out, I put on tefillin, as I do at the Kotel—and I felt the connection.

View of the Kotel and Temple Mount.

We had two hours to spend before our tour of the tunnels beneath the Western Wall, so I texted my family to ask about gifts.  My youngest, Matthew, told me what he wanted, so off I went with a friend from Orlando to shop at my favorite store, Mira.  When we got there, it was closed, so we walked on and into the Arab shuk.

There are many perceptions about Jews and Arabs and how they get along.  Most are very wrong.

As we walked in the Arab shuk, we saw friendly faces and kind people.  I found a store that had what I was looking for and began to shop.  The storekeeper was kind and showed me lots of options.  I texted Matthew pictures to figure out the right one.  While we waited on responses from him, my new shopkeeper friend offered me Turkish coffee, which I accepted.  We chose the right gift, drank some delicious Turkish coffee, and negotiated a price.  He asked what else we wanted, and my friend from Orlando needed specific gifts for his kids.  Our new shopkeeper friend knew just where to go, and after previously unsuccessful searches, my friend got what he needed.  As we walked out, our new friend invited us to stop by again for coffee if we returned to the area.  Of course, we said yes.  I very much look forward to it.  On our way back to the Kotel, I got hooked into another shop in the Arab shuk, and ended up buying something else I wanted for myself.

We hustled back to the Kotel to meet the group and ran into another shopkeeper, who I had promised earlier that I’d look in his store.  Charlie had reminded us during his talk about the power of words and when you say something, you need to mean it, so I shopped in his store as promised.  While there was nothing of interest to buy (and I did try to find something), I felt good that I had honored my word. 

We got back to the Kotel in plenty of time and watched the beginning of an IDF induction ceremony.  It was amazing to see the joy in the eyes of children and their parents, grandparents, aunts, and uncles.  One family struck me deeply as I watched the interaction between first mother and son, then father and son.  It brought tears to my eyes.  Then we went into the tunnels beneath the Kotel.  It’s a fascinating tour that I did about 15 years ago.  There is a synagogue built below to get closer to where the ‘Holy of Holies’ (the ark of the covenant) was kept.  We saw the Herodian stone in better condition there, and realized just how high the wall really was and is.  We went to the place that is the closest we can get to where the ‘Holy of Holies’ was kept and had another chance to speak to God.  It’s something I encourage you to do when you visit.

IDF induction ceremony at the Kotel.

We were now an hour late for our dinner reservations.  Once we arrived, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at a Kosher-Asian fusion restaurant.  We had an amazing conversation—that surprisingly included engaging Torah study!  Many people think of that as incredibly boring.  I can tell you from first-hand knowledge, when you have a good teacher, it’s really fun and very cool.  It was a very fulfilling end to a very long and exhausting day.  We didn’t know how long the walk back to our hotel was going to be, and laughed when we realized it was literally right next door!  We walked in behind another group of people, which meant the elevators were not an option (Israeli hotel elevators fit 2-3 people max!) so up six flights of stairs it was.

As I lay in bed preparing for an early morning and visits to Masada and the Dead Sea, I am overwhelmed with gratitude.  The connections I’m building with the Orlando men are amazing – it’s hard to believe it’s only been three days.  The deep questioning I expected to do on this trip is happening, and I’m enjoying the process.  It’s truly an amazing place that provides far more questions than answers, while also providing deep meaning and connection.